I mentioned London’s Brixton Market a while ago in an article on upmarket markets. Brixton, a survivor of the original riots, remains relatively unharmed by the ‘how to spend it,’ designer-crazed brigade. Ignore the armed police standing guard outside the underground station, the mega-sized branches of KFC and McDonalds – and march rapidly towards Electric Avenue – a monument in the history of electrical engineering and small commercial enterprise.
Brixton Cornercopia, in the covered part of the market, sums up all that is great about contemporary Britain. First off, undercover alfresco dining is the perfect foil for variable weather conditions – not to mention the curiously cosy stoveside indoor seating, the stylish Plumen bulb lighting – and there’s even a quirky vintage high chair for foodie toddlers.
All dishes are made on the premises from sustainably sourced ingredients (many from the market itself) – there’s also a delicatessen opposite, owned by the same proprietors, selling everything from black treacle and Price’s votive candles to handmade baskets, London honey and Andy Forbes’ Brixton Sour handmilled, woodfired bread. Try the wonderful Kingston Black Apple Aperitif – made in Somerset, it’s a blend of cider brandy and the juice of one of the finest vintage cider apples. Starters include white anchovy, fennel and samphire, or coarse pork terrine with homemade piccalilli. The Crown Prince Squash ‘Socca’ pancake is delicious – and for pud there’s burnt orange crème caramel with armagnac prunes – or quince suet sponge with Dorset clotted cream.
This is one of many eating establishments within the covered market, ranging from Mexican restaurants and woodfired pizza parlours to vegan cafes and the Honest Burgers bar. Casa Sibilla, a Puglian restaurant and deli offers regular cookery classes too. And all this in addition to a visual feast of stunningly presented mountains of vibrant coloured, nutrient rich produce – live crabs, slippery wet fish, fat Colombian sausages – even cheap as chips tripe, should you so desire.
Other things to look out for in the market are African goods – you’ll find fabulous printed cotton textiles, brightly decorated ethnic furniture, pots and bowls here (and a profusion of funky plastic kettles, that are possibly watering cans?) There’s a choice of Afro-Caribbean hairdressers too – as well as the Brixton Wig Bazaar on the corner of 1st Avenue (note the original signs still in use). And some cool vintage clothing shops, including Saloon 97 for women, and Two and Six for men. Plus a selection of quirky retro memorabilia and record outlets. Oh, and a treasure of an old Jamaican lady runs a shop called Collectibles, selling vintage china and tapestries – whilst sewing together her own patchwork quilts on the premises.
Brixton Market is full of industriousness, creativity and local character. Under no circumstances should developers, or chain stores, ever be allowed to destroy its charming authenticity.
A wonderful cornucopia of food and ‘objet’. It is like a town high street of yesteryear, before the bland chain stores moved in selling ‘grunge’ to sad drogue-like consumers. A world without beacons of originality, craftsmanship and pride like the small businesses of Brixton Market would be even sadder than it already is…Wonderful pictures Susan you really kno whow to use a camera!
Thanks for this Susan. It sounds amazing, mouth-wateringly; a trek south of the river beckons. I assume it’s just a question of not getting off the Victoria Line until you have to. How difficult can that be?
Golly it’s come on since I knew it back in the early 70s – sounds wonderful!
Thanks Susan, I have never been to Brixton for shopping (only clubbing) my brother lives up the road in Stockwell so next time im staying with him I’ll suggest we head down there in search of some brunch!
I used to use the market in the early 80s, when a friend had taken up involuntary residence just up the road on Jebb Avenue. Good to see it seems even better. Let us pray, therefore, that Brixton doesn’t go the same way as Borough, wilfully destroyed by its gentrifying owners, and where the simple act of buying a potato must now be submerged by the horde of camera-brandishing tourists (who of course themselves buy nothing).
I also tried using the market for care packages (you get could them while on remand in those days).
Screw [quizzical]: Wot’s ‘at?
Visitor [aiming for amicable tone, albeit stating the obvious]: Cheese.
Screw [dogged]: No it in’t.
Visitor [non-plussed]: Yes it is. [as ft to child] It’s called Cam-em-bert.
Screw [triumphant]: Told you. That in’t cheese. Cheese is cheddar.
Thanks, spiceboy… Gaw, Nige, Worm – better get there quick, whilst it’s still unspoiled.
Jonathon, your curiously colourful past should be the subject of a book (or a series of posts at The Dabbler). Unfortunately, I’m one of those camera-brandishing types, though I always pay my way! But I too wince at the scary social shifts taking place – hence my comment about the luxury designer loving brigade – it’s not so much gentrification as materialism in overdrive: A mega-money worshipping, celebrity-drunk orgy of LV’d-up vulgarity and excess on speed. So should the Burlington Arcade traders re-locate to Brixton when D&G, Prada et al move in?
Yes, shame about Borough, which has lost its local roots and therefore its soul. One market which seems to have moved with the times – there’s some great food around about (try Jones Dairy Cafe) – but still manages to keep it real is Columbia Road flower market. I was there last Sunday morning. It was one of these misty, sunny mornings we’re enjoying at the moment and the sights and smells were almost literally stunning. Cheap as your bag of chips too, Susan.
Agree with Gaw on Columbia Road flower market. Used to go there most Sundays with my now wife when we first started dating. Will have to try Brixton market on my next return to London, I’ll confess that other than the occasional trip to Brixton Academy it was a borough I never really bothered with (probably my North London bias).