RetroProgressive: The Serious Art of Fashion

The world of fashion never ceases to amaze. There I was thinking it was all air kisses, goody bags and celebrity endorsement, when suddenly things start to get serious. I suggested that fashion was searching for a new identity a while ago, but when I received an ‘alert’ from Kerry Taylor Auctions about her forthcoming sale on 17th March, I knew the transformation was almost complete.

Kerry’s event promises the usual publicity winners – a see-through knitted lace dress worn by Kate Middleton when she met Prince William (estimate £8-10,000), and  a couple of formal gowns worn by Princess Diana for state visits to France and Japan (up to £60,000 in the case of the Catherine Walker). But the ‘star lot’ turns out to be a piece of ‘fine and important Yves St Laurent couture’ in the form of a Mondrian inspired dress, with an estimate of up to £35,000.

Which brings me to my point: Fashion (and not just vintage) is now taken as seriously as other collectable art. And that is very seriously indeed. As fashion academics, wearing specialist white gloves, ponder over every seam, fold and button detail of 1980s clothing, students from all over the world are vying to be considered for expensive places on the UK’s top fashion and textiles courses. Meantime, you can visit displays of relatively recent fashion in museums, as I did yesterday at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and have as many security guards breathing down your neck as you might expect for a viewing of Tutenkhamun’s sarcophagus.

The Yohji Yamamoto show (from today until 10th July) consists of 60 or so ‘creations’, along with a multi-media timeline, much of which can probably be seen on the internet (Style.com has shows dating back to 1999). The blurb on the flyer says:

“Yamamoto became internationally renowned in the early eighties for challenging traditional notions of fashion by designing garments that seemed oversized and unfinished, that played with ideas of gender or fabrics not usually used in fashion…Other works revealed Yamamoto’s unusual pattern cutting, knowledge of fashion history and sense of humour.”

There are some truly amazing garments in this exhibition, and the quality of workmanship, especially the use of dyes and folding, is second to none. One of the video clips shows a gypsy band, with string players both accompanying and participating as models in a Yamamoto fashion show, which looks great fun. Retired footballer, Zinedine Zidane sounded impressed at the launch party, “Yamamoto is an enlightened man; his work ethic is endlessly inspiring,” he told Style.com.

But on the following day, there was little humour in the oppressive atmosphere of the exhibition display room. However talented they may be, the majority of visiting fashion students, if they’re lucky enough to find employment, will end up working for large retailers like Tesco. And many of the staff at the V&A are probably about to lose their jobs. The way the exhibits are displayed, quite closely together, with hems skimming the floor, is asking for trouble. I almost wanted to trip over, just to see if anyone would laugh.

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About Author Profile: Susan Muncey

Trend consultant Susan Muncey, is Editor of Visuology Magazine. In 2008, she founded online curiosity shop, ShopCurious.com. She writes on style and trends for several blogs, including Visuology.com, ShopCuriousMag.com and The Dabbler. She previously owned cult West London boutique, Fashion Gallery, one of the first concept stores in the world. Susan graduated in geography from Cambridge University and is also an Associate Member of the CFA Institute. She lives in London with her husband.

7 thoughts on “RetroProgressive: The Serious Art of Fashion

  1. tobyash@hotmail.com'
    Toby Ash
    March 12, 2011 at 10:39

    I had a Yohji Yamamoto T-shirt in the late 80s that I wore until it fell apart. I loved it. I should have kept it as it would probably be worth a fortune now. Not sure what sort of life you have even if you do reach the top of the fashion industry. I watched a documentary on Alexander McQueen recently and it looked like hell on earth (almost literally looking at some of his shows) and then of course there’s the Galliano meltdown…

  2. Wormstir@gmail.com'
    Worm
    March 12, 2011 at 12:48

    I’m currently being forced to watch ‘america’s next top model’ by my wife and I too can sympathise with the people who find suicide an attractive option

  3. johngjobling@googlemail.com'
    malty
    March 12, 2011 at 15:28

    Art indeed Susan, I used to think that the schmutter trade was 50% ephemera and 150% attitude, until that is we became friendly with a lady, we bought her house eventually, who had been one of Norman Hartnell’s seamstresses albeit a posh one, she sort of convinced us. Then recently we saw the Last Emperor, Valentino’s story, brilliant film and certainly his frocks are art.

    Re the Japabloodyknees, would suggest the lead lining of all of their future fashion output, and the inclusion of some form of accessorized Geiger counter.

  4. Wormstir@gmail.com'
    Worm
    March 12, 2011 at 16:31

    Kurt Geiger?

    • johngjobling@googlemail.com'
      malty
      March 12, 2011 at 16:48

      Kraut Geiger.

  5. info@shopcurious.com'
    March 12, 2011 at 17:32

    Despite the pressures of the job, Yamamoto seems to be holding up well, Toby – and worm. In this short video clip he nearly gets animated about navy blue – an exciting new diversion from his trademark black (a colour he’s described as ‘modest and arrogant at the same time.’)

    Malty, I’ve missed your posts – have you been away? I’m sure all the couture designers are super talented, but at the end of the day their product is dependent upon the army of artisan workers (and posh seamstresses) who painstakingly construct the garments.

    A Geiger counter – what an splendid idea, Malty. But isn’t there already an iPhone app?

  6. johngjobling@googlemail.com'
    malty
    March 12, 2011 at 18:57

    Mein Gott, is there any human activity that this thing cannot replicate? position No 69 perhaps.
    It’s been Karnival time Susan, Rosenmontag….over one million tiddly-poo krauts and your actual UK contingent, I remember…nothing…Imuden, A9, A3, Deutzer Brücke, then..the sound of opening bottles and oblivion.

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