The Culture Blog For Connoisseurs Of Everything

Here’s another post from The Dabbler’s Most South- Westerly Tip of England Correspondent, Toby Ash, who has discovered in the midst of tropical gardens a delightful new place to read books and take in the sea views.

Situated on the western side of Penzance’s lovely tropical garden, close to the ornate bandstand, is a large, handsome, late Georgian town house which has been home to The Morrab Library for more than 120 years.

The library is one of only 19 independent libraries left in the country and with more than 40,000 books it ranks sixth in size. It began life in one of the large houses of its original benefactors (a wealthy local businessman) in 1818 but as its collections grew, it moved into its current home some 60 years later, and in the decades that followed established itself as a key part of the town’s thriving arts scene.

The building is not a purpose built library, but a converted family residence and as such has a relaxed, homely feel to it. Most rooms have wood panelling and large multi-paned sash windows giving stunning views of the garden and across Mount’s Bay. They also let in lots of light which is always good for the spirit if not for the longevity of the more fragile volumes adorning the shelves. On the walls of the staircase and the corridors are nineteenth century oil paintings and watercolours of local dignitaries and landscapes.

Each room is dedicated to certain broad subject areas – fiction, science, biography, poetry, Cornwall etc. The room for all things religious is nicknamed ‘God’s room’. It is the coldest, darkest room in the place right by the loo.

There are wooden writing desks and armchairs to make members comfortable. You can even make yourself a cup of tea. “Members come in for a book or to just read the paper,” said Elsa, who gave me the guided tour for new members. “In fact you can do anything you want. Some people seem to like to come in for a nap”.

In addition to the books (2,000 of which were published before 1800), there is a photographic archive containing more than 10,000 prints and negatives of the area, editions of The Cornishman dating back to the nineteenth century, and a large collection of Napoleonic memorabilia described by its original owner as ‘the only great Napoleonic collection in the world’. I’ll have to have a rummage and report back on the veracity of that claim.

The library is run by two paid employees and a team of dedicated volunteers like Elsa who strive to make it ‘an informal club for those who love books and people’. It has been too long since I used a library like this – scanning the shelves and excitedly stumbling upon a forgotten title, an old favourite or an undiscovered gem – rather that typing specific titles into a computer and having them delivered.

I just feel so blessed to have found the library. It may not be the Bodleian, but the breadth and depth of the existing collection and the constant stream of new titles will serve me well. But it is so much more than just the printed word. I am now part of a wonderful local institution that makes the quality of my life just that much better than it was before I first walked through its front door. In fact I might just pop round there for a nap right now.